A converted Ironclad Dreadnought is a customized Space Marine walker modified with swapped weapons, re-scaled limbs, extra armor plating, or custom bits to fit specific visual roles and match modern army scale. Hobbyists convert these classic Firstborn walkers using plastic kitbashing, resin upgrades, or 3D-printed parts to improve tabletop presence and distinguish weapon loadouts.
Why convert an Ironclad Dreadnought?
Converting an Ironclad walker solves both practical and aesthetic challenges on the Warhammer 40,000 tabletop. The standard Ironclad kit features a stock chassis, but custom modifications allow you to showcase unique Chapter themes. Iron Hands players can add mechanical cabling and bionics, Salamanders builders can sculpt flame heraldry or add dragon-hide shields, and Black Templars hobbyists can drape heavy chains across the chassis.
Practical gameplay visual cues are another reason to customize. When running multiple siege walkers in an army, distinguishing a dedicated close-assault model armed with a seismic hammer from a ranged support configuration carrying heavy weapons prevents tabletop confusion. Customizing weapon mountings, armor trim, and pose mechanics makes battlefield roles instantly recognizable to both players.
Scaling is also a major driver. Modern Primaris walkers like the Redemptor, Brutalis, and Ballistus possess significantly larger chassis than classic Firstborn models. Converting an older kit with extended leg pins, raised waists, and wider shoulder cauldrons brings the original Ironclad proportions in line with newer models so it does not look undersized beside modern Space Marine units.
This conversion project is best suited for intermediate to advanced hobbyists who enjoy working with hobby blades, two-part putties, and multi-kit bashing. It is not recommended for tabletop players who want immediate, glue-and-play assembly, or tournament players who prefer strictly factory-standard miniature profiles without minor proxy variances.
What tools and materials do you need for conversion?
Having the right tools prevents damaged plastic and structural failure during assembly. Cutting, fitting, and sculpting each require specific supplies before starting work on your walker.
- Cutting and preparation: Flush-cut side clippers, a precision hobby scalpel with #11 blades, micro needle files, and sanding sticks ranging from 400 to 1000 grit.
- Adhesives: Liquid plastic cement (such as Tamiya Extra Thin) for permanent chemical welds on plastic components, and medium-density cyanoacrylate superglue for resin, metal, or pre-painted bits.
- Structural support: A pin vise hand drill equipped with 0.85mm and 1.0mm drill bits, accompanied by 1.0mm brass rod or straightened steel paperclips to pin heavy limb joints.
- Sculpting and gap filling: Two-part epoxy putties including Green Stuff for flexible fine detailing and Milliput for structural fill, along with silicone clay shapers and isopropyl alcohol to smooth plastic seams.
- Donor components: Vehicle bits scavenged from Predator, Rhino, and Land Raider kits, resin options from Forge World, or resin bits sourced through 3D printing platforms like Cults3D.
How do conversion methods compare?
Choosing the right source material depends on your budget, structural goals, and experience with different materials. The following table compares the three main approaches to building a converted Ironclad Dreadnought.
| Conversion Method | Best For | Structural Durability | Skill Level Required | Main Trade-Off |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plastic Kitbashing | Official plastic integrity and Chapter-specific plastic bits | High (solvent welds plastic to plastic) | Intermediate | High cost if buying donor vehicle kits full price |
| Resin Upgrades | Fine relief sculpts, specialty armor plates, and official variant parts | Moderate (requires superglue and mechanical pinning) | Intermediate | Requires washing mold release agent and delicate flash trimming |
| 3D Printed Bits | Custom scale adjustments, obscure weapons, and unique armor geometry | Moderate to High (depends on resin flexibility) | Advanced | Print layer lines need sanding; official stores may restrict non-GW prints |
Step-by-step guide to kitbashing an Ironclad
Following a logical sequence prevents mistakes like gluing joints before trimming or discovering alignment errors after adhesives have fully cured.
- Dry-fit and test proportions: Assemble the main torso and legs temporarily using non-hardening poster tack. Place the model on its standard 60mm base alongside your army to assess height, arm reach, and overall balance.
- Extend hip and knee joints: To perform a true-scale extension, saw cleanly through the thigh pistons and upper hip ball joints. Insert a 1.0mm brass pin through both sections, slip a 2mm plasticard disc or washer into the gap, and secure it with superglue. Pack around the pin with Milliput, smoothing it flush once dry.
- Raise the waistline: Insert a 2mm to 3mm circular plasticard ring between the lower hip ring and the upper torso cup. This subtle addition prevents the torso from looking squatted and gives the walker a taller profile.
- Modify the torso and shoulder arches: Glue additional ablative armor plates onto the front chassis. You can cut down armor panels from Rhino side doors or Land Raider armor strips. File down the edges at a 40-degree angle so they sit flush against the original Ironclad front plate.
- Pin custom arm assemblies: Drill a 1mm hole through the center of the shoulder mounting peg and into the upper arm joint. Insert a brass pin coated in superglue before attaching heavy custom weapons or specialized Dreadnought arms to prevent heavy arms from snapping during tabletop play.
- Fill seams and carve battle damage: Mix equal parts Green Stuff tape and apply small sausages along rescaled leg cuts or torso gaps. Use a silicone clay shaper lubricated with water to smooth transitions into the original plastic.
- Base and counterweight: Mount the feet onto a textured 60mm round base. If heavy resin arms or extra armor shift the center of gravity forward, glue steel washers or lead weights into the hollow cavities beneath the plastic base.
Customizing Ironclad weapon systems
The standard Ironclad armaments feature close-combat tools such as the Seismic Assault Claw and Dread Fist with built-in Meltaguns or Heavy Flamers, alongside auxiliary options like Ironclad Launchers and Hunter-Killer Missiles. Customizing these weapons gives your walker a distinctive profile on the battlefield.
For close-combat weapons, you can cut the fingers off a standard fist and replace them with heavy chainsword teeth salvaged from vehicle kits, or install industrial drill bits to represent specialized armor breakers. Adding hydraulic lines made from thin guitar wire or flexible solder wire running from the elbow piston to the wrist housing adds functional detail.
For custom ranged loadouts, you can mount twin heavy plasma cannons or heavy melta assemblies into the arm housing. Splicing plasma weapon barrels from a Predator tank kit into the shoulder mounting box yields a heavy siege engine look. Trim away excess mounting tabs on the donor gun, sand the cut flat, and drill alignment holes to pin it securely into the upper shoulder hinge.
If you want flexibility for changing game rules, magnetize the shoulder joints instead of gluing them. Drill a 5x2mm N52 neodymium magnet into the torso socket and glue a matching 5x2mm magnet into the arm joint stem. Always check magnet polarity before applying superglue to avoid repelling joints.
Achieving modern true scale proportions
Classic Dreadnought kits sit shorter than newer Primaris vehicle kits. While classic models remain rules-legal on their original 60mm bases, rescaling the chassis improves visual harmony alongside modern infantry and vehicle models.
Focus your scaling efforts on three key areas: leg length, torso waist clearance, and shoulder width. Extending legs by 2mm at the thigh and 1mm at the ankle gives the model a more athletic stance without throwing off joint balance. Adding 2mm of thickness to the central waist ball joint restores correct human-esque proportions once the legs are lengthened.
To widen the shoulder stance, insert a 1.5mm plasticard shim between the main torso casing and the shoulder mounting cap on each side. This pushes the arms slightly outward, creating a broader silhouette that matches the wide, heavy look of modern siege units without altering the core design of the original kit.
Common conversion mistakes and how to fix them
Even experienced hobbyists encounter issues during complex conversions. Here are four common problems along with straightforward fixes:
- Weak shoulder joints breaking off: Plastic glue alone cannot bond resin arms to plastic bodies, and superglue breaks easily under shear force. Fix: Always pin joints connecting different materials using a 1mm brass rod inserted at least 5mm deep into both components.
- Over-cluttered chassis details: Adding too many icons, extra shields, and trophy spikes creates a busy design that hides the model’s main features. Fix: Limit focal points to three areas: the central sarcophagus plate, the primary weapon arm, and one shoulder cowl. Leave lower legs and side panels relatively clear for armor texture and paint weathering.
- Paint flaking off custom resin parts: Resin pieces often retain silicone mold release agent that blocks primer adhesion. Fix: Scrub all resin bits in warm, soapy water with an old toothbrush, dry them completely, and apply a dedicated etching spray primer before painting.
- Unstable model tipping forward: Heavy front armor or extended weapon claws can make the walker front-heavy. Fix: Embed lead fishing weights or heavy metal washers into the undersides of the 60mm plastic base using two-part epoxy glue.
Tournament rules and line-of-sight compliance
When bringing a converted model to organized events, clear construction ensures your mini remains fully legal for play under What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) rules.
Always mount your converted walker on the standard 60mm round base. Using smaller or larger bases alters aura ranges and melee engagement zones, which violates tournament standards.
Weapon loadouts must accurately represent chosen army lists. If your walker is equipped with a Meltagun and Seismic Claw, ensure those specific weapon profiles are clearly visible on the conversion. When playing casual or narrative games with custom proxy weapons, explain your loadout to your opponent before rolling dice.
Weathering, lighting, and custom details
Adding realistic battle damage elevates a converted chassis. You can carve bullet impacts into front armor plates by making a shallow cone depression with a micro drill bit, then flaring the outer metal edges using the tip of a fresh #11 scalpel blade. Scratches and gouges are created by scraping the blade sideways across corner armor plates.
For advanced display builds, consider wiring 0603 micro SMD LEDs into the interior sarcophagus cavity. Drill out the eye slits or visor apertures on the headpiece using a 0.5mm bit, seat the LED directly behind the aperture using clear PVA glue, and run thin enamel wire down through the hollow leg into a coin-cell battery housing buried inside a raised scenic base.
Customizing scenic bases with crushed cork, industrial brass etching, and miniature concrete debris adds real weight to siege walker poses. Adding thematic elements while applying sound modelling techniques creates a memorable centerpiece model for your army.
Sources: List of ironclads of the Royal Navy
Frequently asked questions
Can I use Forge World parts on a standard Ironclad Dreadnought?
Yes, parts from Forge World are designed for compatibility with standard kits, though resin pieces require superglue rather than plastic cement. You may need to sand or trim mounting pegs slightly to get a flush fit on standard plastic torso sockets.
Are there any legal restrictions for converted models in games?
Tournament organizers require models to use the official base size (60mm round for an Ironclad) and maintain an accurate silhouette. Weapons should accurately reflect the army list profile so opponents can easily identify your unit’s gear.
What is the best way to add extra armor to an Ironclad?
Trim plastic armor panels from donor kits like Predator tanks or Rhino doors, file the rear contact surfaces flat, and secure them with liquid plastic cement. For resin armor plates, clean off any mold release agent and pin them to the main body with brass wire and superglue.
How can I make my Ironclad Dreadnought look more unique?
Incorporate chapter-specific icons, add custom close-combat claws, replace standard weapon barrels with converted heavy tank guns, or raise the waist and legs to true-scale proportions. Weathering damage like bullet gouges and custom scenic basing also add distinct personality.
Is a ‘true scale’ conversion necessary for my Ironclad?
Rescaling is entirely optional and serves pure aesthetic preference to help older Firstborn models blend visually beside larger Primaris units. A standard out-of-the-box build remains completely legal for official gameplay.
Where can I find good conversion parts online?
You can source official plastic conversion bits from donor vehicle kits, resin bits from Forge World, or digital STL files designed for 3D printing from creators on platforms like Cults3D and MyMiniFactory.
