Skitarii Vanguard test model

Skitarii Vanguard test model complete.

Skitarii VanguardI’ve painted up my very first Skitarii model with my new paint recipes and I have to say, I’m pretty dang happy with it. It came out very close to my original concept that I mocked up in Photoshop, and it wasn’t that hard to do compared to my marines. Very little edge highlighting needed. I’d like to do a detailed breakdown of the various paint recipes here for you, dear readers (and also myself since I won’t remember).

Vanguard gallery

But first, let’s take a look at some more pics from other angles.

I was going for a very grimy steampunk look. Lots of brass, copper, wood and leather warm tones. I wanted to use a contrasting color without looking garish, so I opted for a dusty blue with blue lenses and glowy bits.

Paint recipe breakdowns

Blue robes:

  1. Base: Caledor Sky
  2. Airbrush highlight: Hoeth Blue
  3. Wash: heavy wash with thinned Agrax Earthshade (3 parts shades, 1 part water)
  4. Layer: Lahmian Medium and Hoeth Blue, 1:1
  5. Layer: edge highlight with very thin Fenrisian Gray
  6. Layer: deepen select shadows with very think Eshin Gray

Tan robes:

  1. Base: Steel Legion Drab
  2. Airbrush highlight: Zandri Dust
  3. Wash: heavy wash with thinned Agrax Earthshade (3 parts shades, 1 part water)
  4. Layer: edge highlight with very thin Flayed One Flesh

Weathered brass:

  1. Base: Averland Sunset
  2. Wash: heavy wash with straight Nuln Oil
  3. Stiple and drybrush: Skullcrusher Brass
  4. Pin wash: add a few spots of straight Athonian Camoshade
  5. Layer: edge highlights and scratches with Skullcrusher Brass

Shiny-penny copper:

  1. Base: Fulgurite Copper
  2. Wash: heavy wash with straight Reikland Fleshshade
  3. Layer: Fulgurite Copper
  4. Layer: edge highlight with Sycorax Bronze

Gray pressure suit and smooth wires:

  1. Base: Mechanicus Standard Gray
  2. Wash: heavy wash with straight Nuln Oil
  3. Layer: Mechanicus Standard Gray

Silver-metal ribbed tubes:

  1. Base: Mechanicus Standard Gray
  2. Wash: heavy wash with straight Nuln Oil
  3. Overbrush: Stormhost Silver

Leather and wood:

  1. Base: Rhinox Hide
  2. Wash: heavy wash with straight Nuln Oil
  3. Layer: edge highlight with Doombull Brown

Purity seal wax:

  1. Base: Doombull Brown
  2. Wash: heavy wash with straight Agrax Earthshade
  3. Layer: edge highlight with Tuskgor Fur

Purity seal parchment:

  1. Base: Rakarth Flesh
  2. Wash: heavy wash with straight Agrax Earthshade
  3. Layer: edge highlight with Pallid Wych Flesh
  4. Details: scribbles added with an old brown ink, but any thinned dark paint would do

Blue lenses:

  1. Base: Ceramite White
  2. Glaze: straight Guilliman Blue
  3. Layer: dot of White Scar

Coil sinister glow:

  1. Copper as per recipe
  2. Wash: patchy wash with Nihilakh Oxide
  3. Glaze: Guilliman Blue

Most of these recipes can be easily combined. The pressure suit, tubes and wires, and brass all need a straight shot of Nuln Oil, so you can do them all at once. I did the robes first with an airbrush, both inside and out and airbrushed Averland Sunset on parts that were going to be mostly metal. I then painted on the brown, gray and any spots of yellow that I needed to so I could wash them all at once. I was also trying to go as fast as possible and not worry too much about being overly neat. Once that was down I worked on the robes, using a more painterly style than I usually do to get some movement and texture on them. Drybrushing/stipling on the brass was a bit messy, but it was simple to cover up with the edge highlights on the gray and brown bits. The weapon took a bit of time simply because it was so complex, but blocking out the areas the first time is always harder than reproducing it later on the rest of the models.

The overall effect was rather quick and dirty, literally. I think it works pretty dang well, and the contrast between the aged, worn brass and the shiny copper is pretty striking. The robes set anything off without jarring the eye, and the overall effect is pretty close to what I was shooting for.

What do you think? Thoughts? Suggestions? I’m curious how this will work on other models from the range.