Imperial Knight Conversion: Pt. 17 — Oil paint weathering.
I’ve been testing out and trying all kinds of new techniques on this little Knight of mine (I’m gonna let it shine). I’ve been slaving away at just one of her legs with oil paint filters and rust techniques, trying to get the layers of weathering just right. I think I’ve settled on an amount I’m okay with until I can seal it and get to work with weathering pigments and powders (tips from those who’ve used them? Oil pastels crushed up/expensive hobby brands?) and also a floor polish grease and oil effect. This is a fairly complicated process, but it’s also fun and rather forgiving as you can wipe it off and start over without messing up the acrylic paints you’ve already laid down.
Since the last time you saw it, I’ve added:
- Spots of lamp black oil paint, thinned down into filters (similar to the glazes you probably already use) with mineral spirits–also known as white spirits across the pond–and spread around. I was shooting for the way old sheet metal has dark oxidized patches in some parts.
- Spots of burnt sienna oil paint added around the rivets and some more patches, thinned into filters or streaked downwards to simulate rust streaks from rain. Around the joints, this was thinned similar to a wash and allowed to run into the cracks. With a brush dampened with some more spirits, I removed most of the paint from the higher edges that would see the most wear. The oil paint builds realistic layers pretty much on its own.
- I blacked out things like the cables and soft armor around the toes and the hips.
- Finally, I sponged on a bit of silver after it all had a chance to dry (sort of. Oil paint never fully dries). I should have done the black after this. I’ve since gone back and touched those up.
Here’s a good overall shot of her leg as it is now. It’s really not that hard at all, and I highly recommend playing around with some oils. Since you can use the spirits to clear it off you can play around with it forever to get it just the way you want.
From the front. I think the layers around the knee and upper thigh turned out really well. I let the rust streak around the bolts, because eventually I’ll be building up a bit of dried, caked rust around the pits of the bolts and I want it to look like they’re basically rusted in place at this point. Maybe I should save one or two around the model to show spots where she had to take that bit apart and scrape away all the rust.
Is it weird to call this a crotch shot? Sorry, girly. Anyway the depth in this area is great. Between the subtle texture of the Typhus Corrosion, the drybrushing, and then the weathering, it looks pretty realistic to me. Too bad most of this will be covered by armor. Oh well. You and I still know it’s there.
And the back of the leg. I like how gnarly that gash on the outside of the back of her knee looks with the rust effects. Again, I think this technique adds some pretty realistic effects that really push this towards scale military/train model territory. That’s exactly what I was hoping to explore here so that can only be a good thing.
I think that’s as far as I can take the metal parts until I get the non-metal bits painted and I can get some clear coat on it. Like I said, I’ll eventually be adding weathering powders to get some nice dry, crusty bits around the bolts, and I’m working on some oil and grease effects that will be added as a finishing touch as well. I think this makes for a nice base.
Thoughts? Suggestions? What do you think?