Dreadtober — painting progress

Dreadtober — part 5

I’ve been chipping away at this Ironclad dreadnought (I need a name for him at this point, don’t you think?) over the last week or so. Let’s have a look.

IMG_0099I started  by spraying down some Waaagh! Flesh, as per my new Eagle Eyes green recipe. Not much to it, but I had a heck of a time getting the consistency right. I’m really sad Games Workshop didn’t add this color to their new airbrush range, actually. Seems a lot of Ork players would use it, but maybe they’ll get it later? Anyway, I was just going for an even coat here, so I hit it about three times. Not much else to see here, but I’ll take a moment to mention that I really don’t care for Vallejo’s air primers. No matter what I use to dilute it, or even shooting straight, they scratch off with the slightest provocation. I was more than willing to believe this was my problem, but after searching around it would appear I’m not the only person who struggles with this. I contacted the company, and they asked me all kinds of questions about how I was using it and suggested some things to try. Sounds good, right? Well,  it would if I hadn’t told them all the answers and explained the things I’d already tried in the first email I sent. It’s like they didn’t read it, and that sort of thing drives me nuts. I wanted to give it one more try since I ordered some ‘real’ airbrush thinner, but the results were the same. I think I’ll move on.

Anyone have a good suggestion for an airbrush primer besides Vallejo?

IMG_0101After this I hit some areas with black to block them out, dropped a ton of Agrax Earthshade onto the green (god, I love this stuff so much) and even started the bronze. In this pic it just has the Warplock Bronze, bathed in a good layer of Coelia Greenshade. It’s not looking like much yet, but it’s nice to cover up the conversion work and get that green going. I really dig the muted green recipe that I’ve started using. Feels much more Raven Guard/Raptors to me. I think the scheme is a little TOO Raptors, to be honest, but I really dig that green and I didn’t want to actually make them Raptors, so this is what I’m left with.

IMG_0103Next up was the metalwork. I won’t lie… I was really dreading this. No pun intended. If I were a more sensible or patient man, I would have painted this all in subassemblies. However, I’m on a tight deadline and the only way I’m making it is if I plow full steam ahead without giving myself a chance to slow down. In this pic, it’s just bare Leadbelcher. I hadn’t even washed it yet. This was a lot of work, though, between the fiddly hard-to-reach areas behind the legs to just tossing out a bunch of it around the back.

IMG_0109Now you can see the metal has gotten a good slathering of Agrax Earthshade. I love the oily metal look this provides, and it really dulls it down nicely so the highlights will pop a bit more. I added the decals at this point, because I want them to get a bit weathered as I work. I’ve been hitting them with coats of Microsol, and working on some details while they dry in between. I took the time to finish the bronze here. I added a thin coat of Nihilakh Oxide in the recesses, then drybrushed a bit of Balthasar Gold on top, and highlighted with just a touch of Sycorax Bronze as the final drybrush. I’m really liking the look of the patina on it. It’s a good muted, aged bronze that’s very ‘not gold.’ I also worked up base colors on the purity seals, scrolls (both Rakarth Flesh), and all the red lenses (Khorne Red). I’m sticking with a glowing lens look on this army, as opposed to gem-like lenses.

IMG_0110I washed the purity seal parchment in Seraphim Sepia and the scrollwork in Agrax. For the lenses, I painted in large circles of Wazdakka Red, then small circles of Wild Rider Red, and finally a dot of the edge paint Lugganath Orange. I used the same colors to do traditional highlights on the purity seal wax. I then glazed both in Bloodletter. I wanted the visor to match the way I’m doing my marine eyes now, which is just a thin slit of white, then flooding the area with Bloodletter. It makes a pretty convincing glow effect on its own. After I hit the model with a matte sealant later, I’ll go in and hit these with my red-tinted Future glaze to both gloss them and deepen the color. During this whole process, I continued to hit the decals with more Microsol as well.

What’s next — another arm…

I ordered a set of Space Wolf Venerable Dreadnought arms off eBay (I actually wish I had just purchased the kit at this point…), because the right arm is swinging out to the right. Again, I believe that’s the first boxy dread arm that isn’t sticking pretty much straight forward. I’d gotten some feedback that the arms weren’t helping with the pose, and I agreed. I think the right arm swinging wide will help sell the idea that he’s shouldering down, and getting ready to deliver a wicked haymaker punch after he smashes into them. I’ll probably cut the hand off this arm and magnetize it, so I can swap. The reason being it will be pretty much impossible to make an underslung weapon with a tube that works for both a straight and a posed arm, so I’ll probably need to completely recreate another Heavy Flamer for the new arm. There’s really no way I can do a Storm Bolter with that belt feed off to the side, so I don’t think I’ll even bother with it. I don’t expect to use it with that weapon often, so I don’t think it’s a big deal to do the work. Now that I’m thinking about it, I guess I could just convert THIS Heavy Flamer to work with the new arm, and then glue the Storm Bolter to the straight arm, since that’s the only time I’d use it. I like that idea, and it saves me some magnets!